A quick browse through the gamefaq.com shows that there is no FAQ
available for this rally sim, so here's my version.
This is a FAQ, NOT a manual. You won't learn how to play the game
with this document, and I'm NOT about to add it to ease the life
of software pirates.
This USG only covers the PC version since that's the only version
that I have.
Some of you may recognize my name as the editor for the XCOM and
XCOM2: TFTD FAQ's, among others.
0.2 Terms of Distribution
This document is copyrighted by Kuo-Sheng "Kasey" Chang (c) 2001,
all rights reserved excepted as noted above in the disclaimer
section.
This document is available FREE of charge subjected to the
following conditions:
1) This notice and author's name must accompany all copies of
this document: "Rally Masters Unofficial Strategy Guide" is
copyrighted (c) 2001 by Kasey K.S. Chang, all rights reserved
except as noted in the disclaimer."
2) This document must NOT be modified in any form or manner
without prior permission of the author with the following
exception: if you wish to convert this document to a different
file format or archive format, with no change to the content,
then no permission is needed.
2a) In case you can't read, that means TXT only. No banners, no
HTML borders, no cutting up into multiple pages to get you more
banner hits, and esp. no adding your site name to the site list.
3) No charge other than "reasonable" compensation should charged
for its distribution. Free is preferred, of course. Sale of this
information is expressly prohibited. If you see any one selling
this guide, drop me a line at ksc1@aol.com.
4) If you used material from this, PLEASE ACKNOWLEDGE the source,
else it is plagiarism.
5) The author hereby grants all games-related web sites the right
to archive and link to this document to share among the game
fandom, provided that all above restrictions are followed.
Sidenote: The above conditions are known as a statutory contract.
If you meet them, then you are entitled to the rights I give you
in 5), i.e. archive and display this document on your website. If
you don't follow them, then you did not meet the statutory
contract conditions, and therefore you have no right to display
this document. If you do so, then you are infringing upon my
copyright. This section was added for any websites that don't
seem to understand this.
For the gamers: You are under NO obligation to send me ANY
compensation. However, I do ask for a VOLUNTARY contribution of
one (1) US Dollar if you live in the United States, and if you
believe this guide helped your game. If you choose to do so,
please make your US$1.00 check or $1.00 worth of US stamps to
"Kuo-Sheng Chang", and send it to "2220 Turk Blvd. #6, San
Francisco, CA 94118 USA". If you don't live in the US, please
send me some local stamps. I collect stamps too.
0.3 Distribution
This USG should be available at Gamefaqs
(http://www.gamefaqs.com) and other major PC game websites (such
as gamesdomain.com, gamespot.com, gamecenter.com, etc.).
To webmasters who wish to archive this FAQ on their website,
please read the terms of distribution in section 0.2. It says
exactly what it says.
0.4 Other Notes
There is no warranty for this unofficial strategy guide. After
all, it depends on YOU the player. All I can do is offer some
advice.
PLEASE let me know if there's a confusing or missing remark... If
you find a question about this game that is not covered in the
USG, e-mail it to me at ksc1@aol.com. I'll try to answer it and
include it in the next update.
0.5 The Author
I am just a game player who decided to write my own FAQs when the
ones I find don't cover what I want to see. Lots of people like
what I did, so I kept doing it.
Previously, I've written Unofficial Strategy Guides (USGs) for
XCOM, XCOM2:TFTD, Wing Commander 3, Wing Commander 4, Fade to
Black, Spycraft, 688(I) Hunter/Killer. Mechwarrior 3, MW3
Expansion Pack, Need for Speed: Porsche Unleashed, and
Mechwarrior 4.
You can find some of them on my KC Game Nexus website at
http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Alley/6275
If you need to write me, send e-mail to ksc1@aol.com.
0.6 Disclaimer/ Copyright Information
Rally Masters: Michelin Race of Campions is a trademark of
Infogrames.
This USG is not endorsed or authorized by Infogrames.
The information compiled in this USG has been gathered
independently through the author's efforts.
0.7 The Most Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can you send me Rally Masters?
A: No.
Q: Can you send me the manual (or portions thereof)?
A: It's on the CD, you idiot!
Q: Can you tell me how to play the game?
A: Read the manual.
Q: What's the latest version?
A: US or European version? US Version (V3.1) have no patch.
European version has a 3.2 patch available from the Digital
Illusions website (dice.se).
1 Game Information
This section contains the general game information.
1.1 Background
It's a simple concept. Give every driver identical cars, and have
them drive on a "cross-over" side-by-side track, and do a full
lap, and see who's faster, and thus the better driver. Just in
case the win is due to luck, do two-out-of-three races, swap
starting positions after each heat, and choose randomly from
multiple car models (but nearly equal), which will ensure
fairness. Thus is born Race of Champions.
Michelin Race of Champions is the annual end-of-season event
organized by IMP and officially sanctioned by the FIA
(International Automobile Federation). It is held at the Canary
Islands since 1992. Before that, it was held at Nurburgring,
Germany in 1990 and Barcelona, Spain in 1991.
The American equivalent is IROC (International Race of
Champions), which give a full field of drivers identical cars and
let them loose on ovals.
1.2 Game Information
Rally Masters is a 3D driving sim that allows you to participate
in the famous Race of Champions event above, as well as in multi-
stage Championship held on super-special stages, a race on
circuit courses with multiple cars, and a traditional rally
event.
There are over 20 cars and lots of tracks (all can be raced in
reverse) with lots of actual drivers.
Multiplayer is supported through built-in server/client.
1.3 Hardware requirements
Intel Pentium 233 or faster CPU
Win95 or Win98
32 megs of RAM
Direct 3D accelerator with at least 8 megs of memory
Directsound compatible soundcard
(Optional joystick, wheel, pedals, and other controllers)
(Optional Internet connection for multiplayer games)
1.4 Difficulty Levels
It has five difficulty levels, as well as three separate
divisions of drivers (F2, WRC, and Legends) and over 20 different
vehicles. Some drivers and cars are locked and must be "unlocked"
through winning.
1.5 Single and Multiplayer Modes
Single player: you can participate in one of the four trophy
events: Race of Champions, Rally Master Championship, Rally
Master Challenge, and Rally Master Trophy. You can race single
events (i.e. pick one special country's courses), or pick a
specific course to practice, in either full race or simple time-
attack mode.
Any of the events can be picked as multiplayer. You can join an
existing server or start your own server. There is a built-in
chat lobby.
1.6 Misc. Info
No content yet.
2 Rally driving tips
2.1 Powerslide
The trick to retaining speed into a corner is by using a maneuver
known as a powerslide. Approach a corner a little faster than you
normally would, but turn slightly earlier. If you can't get the
nose around, tap the handbrakes to force the rear wheels loose.
If the nose turns too far, countersteer and accelerate slightly.
If you do it just right, your nose would be pointing into the
next corner as the car slides sideways and you can accelerate
away once you pass the apex.
2.2 Brake turns
There are some situations where you need to make a tight 90
degree or 180 degree turn, and the trick to that is to use BOTH
the brakes and the hand brakes. As you approach that 180 turn
(say in the USA superspecial stage), accelerate until you're near
the turn. Then turn as you slam both handbrakes and the brakes at
the same time. Your car should slide and turn. When you judge
you've slowed enough for the rest of the turn, start accelerating
away.
2.3 Listen to your co-driver
Your co-driver is VERY important, esp. at night, when your
visibility is limited and you can't see far enough to anticipate
the turn. The turn degrees can tell you if you are going fast
enough or slow enough to do that next turn.
2.4 Jump into a corner is bad
Never, EVER take a bump fast if it's followed by a corner! You
can't brake while you're in the air. Uphill turns are also bad!
Slow down when doing uphill turns!
3 Terrain Analysis
3.1 Tarmac
Tarmac, or asphalt to us Yanks, has the best traction, esp. if
you have tarmac tires (i.e. slicks). However, you still can't
expect it to bail you out of bad driving. Besides, there are no
100% tarmac courses in RM, so you will almost never use tarmac
tires. Intermediates or even gravel provide decent traction on
asphalt.
3.2 Sand
Very prone to sliding, you'll mainly see this terrain in England
and USA. The trick in sand driving is avoid sudden moves, and
take the corners smoothly and slowly. You can't powerslide on
sand. You'll just slide all the way to the edge of the road. So
don't do it. If you get a mixture of sand and tarmac course,
consider using intermediate tires.
3.3 Gravel
Gravel at first seems to be the best terrain for powersliding,
but in reality it's actually very dangerous, as it is hard to
control how much traction you get. It's quite possible to flip
the car on gravel when you overdo your sliding, esp. on the
superspecial stage in England. Definitely use gravel tires when
you need to drive on gravel.
3.4 Mud
Mud is accompanied by a lot of grass, which can be driven on, but
you'll have to watch out for trees. You can and should powerslide
in mud, but beware of over-doing it, as mud doesn't provide that
much traction to stop your sliding. Definitely use gravel tires
in mud.
3.5 Snow
Snow is usually accompanied by icy roads. You get snow or heavy
snow tires, and the difference isn't really that great. When
driven, the terrain feels a lot like mud.
3.6 Rain (not really a terrain, but.)
Rain is really not a terrain, but it makes existing terrain
slicker, which means you have to go a little slower through the
corners.
4 The Cars
While you can't pick your own car except in RM Trophy or Time
Attack mode, it's still necessary to know the different cars'
strengths and weaknesses.
4.1 F2 Division Cars
The F2 cars are normally FWD and quite light, and a bit
underpowered. The Escort Cosworth have slightly more power and
4WD, but also 25% more weight to pull around.
4.1.1 Peugeot 306 Maxi
With 7 gears this has good acceleration even with only 280 hp.
It's also small and therefore manueverable. However, it's quite
tall for a rally car and stability can be a problem.
4.1.2 Ford Escort Cosworth
With 300 hp and 4WD, this car is the most powerful in the F2
class, but also the heaviest. Don't over-rev the engine, as it
doesn't seem to take much abuse.
4.1.3 Skoda Octavia Kit Car
As light as the 306 and the Xsara, but only 6 gears, this is a
good intro car due to the small size. It requires deft handling
to win though.
4.1.4 Renault Megane Maxi
With 7 gears and 280 hp just like the Peugeot 306, and better
handling, this is probably the best car in F2.
4.1.5 Citroen Xsara Kit Car (Locked)
Another "kit car" with 280 hp, 6 gears, and weighs 960 kilo, this
car is just average.
4.1.6 Hyundai Coupe Evo 2 (Locked)
With only 255 hp, you may have a little trouble doing powerslides
in this car, but good handling.
4.2 WRC Division Cars
The WRC cars have more power. The different cars have same amount
of horsepower, and almost the same weight.
4.2.1 Toyota Corolla WRC
Small in dimension, yet has good handling and acceleration, a
rare combo indeed.
4.2.2 Ford Escort WRC
Slightly longer wheelbase than its competitors, it has better
stablility, but gearbox doesn't take much abuse.
4.2.3 Peugeot 206 WRC
Could be the best WRC class car, with balanced top speed, power,
and handling.
4.2.4 Skoda Octavia WRC
A rather big car, it doesn't quite compete with the rest of the
field.
4.2.5 Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 6 (Locked)
A good competitor of the Peugeot 206 WRC, it has mostly the same
feature, and MAY be slightly faster.
4.3 Legends Division Car
4.3.1 Audi S1
This is definitely NOT a beginner's car. This car is just TOO
fast around most corners. If you can control 500 hp, then give it
a try.
4.3.2 Peugeot 205 T16
This car has 424 hp and weight under 1 ton, which gives it the
best power to weight ratio and best acceleration. Its small size
makes it manueverable, but keeping it under control can be
tricky.
4.3.3 Toyota Celica GT4
Only 400 hp and 5 gears, this car doesn't sound like a winner,
but it's actually very well balanced with 4WD. It's a bit long
for some of the tighter tracks, and losing gears in a long race
can be a big problem. Acceleration isn't that good.
4.3.4 Lancia Delta Integrale
With 380 hp, 4WD, and 6 gears, this is a balanced car, though it
doesn't slide that well.
4.3.5 Lancia 037 (locked)
With 350 hp and RWD, this car requires quite a bit of practice
before you can drive it properly. Once you do, it's fast.
4.3.6 Lancia Delta S4 (locked)
Think of this car as a SHORTER version of the Toyota Celica GT4,
and therefore more manueverable.
4.3.7 Lancia Stratos (locked)
Only 320 hp and RWD, this car requires a LOT of finesse to keep
on the track. It sure looks fast though.
4.4 Other Cars
These cars are used in category 1 races.
4.4.1 Autocross Buggy
Interesting car, as it has 200 hp and RWD, yet it maneuvers quite
well. It's also VERY light, but it's low to the ground and quite
stable.
4.4.2 Toyota RAV 4
Very light 4WD car, but only 170 hp, this is a finesse car. Don't
expect to powerslide around corners.
5 Race of Champions
5.1 General Description
The Michelin Race of Champions is an invitational event for the
best of the best drivers in the world. The event is held at the
Canary Islands. The competitors drive identical cars over a
special circular parallel rally circuit with a "cross-over". This
is known in rally racing as a super-special stage. You start on
either the outside or the inside. After half "lap", you'll be on
the other side. The full lap concludes when the driver reaches
his original starting position. The event is two-out-of-three
races at each level, single-elimination per level.
You join at the quarter-final level, where you race 7 other
drivers. You will be paired up with one other driver with two
identical cars randomly chosen from the approved list (refer to
manual, page 18). You'll be randomly assigned inside or outside
starting position. You will exchange position with your opponent
in the next race. The race is determined by two-out-of-three. If
you beat your opponent twice over two heats, then there is no
need to run the third race. Otherwise the third race is sudden-
death.
The same thing happens at the semi-final, and again, on the final
stage, where Champion is declared.
All races are run on the Canary Island course.
5.2 Observation and Strategy
The AI seems to be specially tuned for this track, as they seem
to be able to take the corners faster than you can. They seem to
turn in some incredible lap times. In real-life, the course
record is 1:53 (and that's in an Audi S1 Quattro). When you race
the AI, you'll routinely turn in 1:18 or less lap times!
The course is mostly mud, so traction should not be a problem,
and the course is wide enough for you to slide in most places.
As the race is only one FULL lap, you will be forced to take SOME
damage in order to ensure a faster time. Your car will be just
BARELY under control as you try to steer in the mud. Scrape
against the walls will be necessary, as you don't have time to
aim for a perfect slide.
Maintaining speed will be critical. You can't afford to scrape
TOO many walls. Let go of the throttle a little as you approach
the corner to ensure your turn-in.
The trick in taking corners in rally driving is start your turn
early, and not going too fast. You should turn just before you
reach the corner, with your nose just missing the inside wall,
and aimed already at the next part of the road. You may have to
countersteer a little to keep the nose pointed right. If you
slide sideways into the outside wall, you were going too fast. If
you hit the inside wall, you turned too early. If your nose is
not pointing the right way, consider tapping the handbrakes (a
QUICK tap only!) to force the rear wheels loose. If you nose
turned too far, you didn't countersteer enough.
Despite the mud flinging, rally driving is actually a finesse
sport. You have to know the exact limit of each car and each
corner. Sliding is meant to preserve speed at each corner.
If you are using keyboard or others to accelerate/brake, consider
"blipping" (quick series of tapping) around the corners, as
that'll simulate a "partial" throttle.
6 RM Championship
6.1 General Information
Essentially the same as Race of Champions, except you race over
six different countries, with the grand finale in the Canary
Islands worth double the points.
6.2 Italy
To be compiled later.
6.3 Sweden
The snowy terrain is actually pretty easy after you figure out
the optimal approach to each corner. Tarmac doesn't provide that
much traction, but the snow actually provides pretty decent
traction as long as you don't slide too hard. The "edge" of the
clear area has snow that will slow you down. Use that on the
corners to help you get the right speed.
6.4 Indonesia
This course rewards being careful with your speed, with a LOT of
shoulder space to make your turns smoother. The mud doesn't
provide must resistance to sliding, so don't slide too much.
6.5 USA
This course is very short, and requires a LOT of finesse, as it
relies on a series of 180 turns.
Right-side start: that initial S-turn is hard, so slow down a
little. As you head up that ramp, slow down a little to make that
left turn. Consider a simultaneous hand and regular brakes. Then
you need to accelerate hard down the bridge, then do the
hand/brake turn as you go down, then the left turn, then do
another hand/brake 180 to left, and head to left-side start.
Left-side start: initial left turn is a little tight, and it's
easy to scrape the outside on the next one, but don't, as you'll
end up facing the right side wall if you scrape the right wall.
Do hand/brake turn at the end, blip the throttles to maintain
speed, accelerate away, another hand/brake turn, accelerate, then
one more as you do the gentler U-turn. Back to right-side start.
6.6 Great Britain
This course is mainly gravel and a little tarmac. It's also VERY
narrow, with very little room for proper "turn-in". You WILL
scrape the walls a lot.
If you are in the "left side" start, be VERY careful in those
"right-turn" corners. It's VERY easy to flip your car on those
corners. That's what the announcer was warning about the corners
that will "throw" your car.
If you are in the "right side" start, be careful as you go
through those underpasses. If you take the approach wrong you'll
miss the road and flip the car.
6.7 Canary Islands
See [5.2].
7 RM Challenge Cup
7.1 General Information
Challenge Cup consists of 5 different events.
In each event you join at the quarterfinal stage, where you
compete against 7 other drivers.
In quarterfinal, you do 3 laps around a course with 3 other
identical cars. The two best drivers will go to the semifinals.
(With the other heat, that makes 4 drivers total). You race
identical but randomly chosen category 1 cars.
In semifinal, you do 3 laps around the same course, but reversed,
with 3 other identical cars. You must be in the top 2 to enter
the finals. You race identical but randomly chosen category 2
cars.
In the final, you drive that country's "super-special" stage
against the other guy in identical but randomly chosen category 3
cars.
In different racing divisions (F2, WRC, Legends), F2 race the
short circuit, WRC race the medium circuit, and Legends race the
long circuit.
7.2 Observation and Strategy
With 4 cars on the road things can get crowded. Either get in
front from the very start, or hang back a little and look for
good spots to pass. I'd wait until the field starts to separate a
bit. With 3 full laps there should be plenty of time.
With three laps to go, car damage becomes a problem, esp. on the
medium and long circuits. As you only need to place in the top
two on the circuit races to get into the finals, you may want to
conserve your car until the final lap, while stay close to the
front-runners.
The AI drivers seem to have some problem negotiating the corners
or when the road changes from one type to another, so you may be
able to get in front and stay in front, as long as you don't
really mess up.
If you want to be really nasty, perform the "spin move" on the
leading car. Put your car's nose just against his rear wheels to
one side, then TURN INTO HIM. That will spin him around and
you'll take the lead, and he'll hopefully smash into something
behind you, like your other competitors. If not, he'll probably
head outside into the trees.
8 RM Trophy
8.1 General Information
The RM Trophy is your typical rally racing against the clock.
You'll be racing 11 other competitors that you'll never see
physically, as they are not on the track with you. You will see
their time matched up against yours though.
You can choose your own car. Please see the cars section for more
information.
You'll race on 8 different stages. You can repair after every 3
stages, and save after every 4 stages.
8.2 Course Setup
Gearbox Ratio: high acceleration, normal, or high speed
If you have long straights on this course, then you need high-
speed gears. Otherwise stick to normal. High acceleration keeps
the RPM high and if you are not careful, you'll cause engine or
transmission damage. On the other hand, on short and curvy
courses high accel can go faster.
Tire Choices: Tarmac, Intermediate, Gravel, Snow, Heavy Snow
Tarmac (slicks) is for tarmac only. Unless there are any tarmac
only courses, you don't need it. If it's raining, use
intermediate, though it also works on sandy surfaces. Gravel
tires is for gravel of course, and it works well enough on sand.
Snow is for snow and ice, of course. If the course is 100% snow,
try heavy snow tires.
Suspension (front or rear): hard, normal, soft.
Suspension settings affect your steering. Set it to as hard as
you can handle. Keep in mind that hard suspension makes car very
responsive, but decreases traction. If your tail is sliding too
far, set the rear suspension softer. If your nose is sliding too
far, set the front suspension softer.
8.3 Damage Causes
Steering, suspension, and brake damage are caused by collisions.
(duh!)
Engine damage is caused by frontal collisions, or by over-reving
the engine (constant redline engine runs). On a long straight,
don't push the engine too hard unless you have high-speed gears
installed.
Transmission damage is caused by extreme amount of revving and
wheel spins. Picking the wrong gear ratios would cause this too.
If you don't abuse the car you shouldn't have serious
transmission damage.
8.4 Damage Control
As you are not allowed to repair until 3 stages are completed,
car preservation is a significant factor. You only have 30
minutes to do repairs.
Steering affects how your cars will take the corner. You may be
able to compensate by using harder suspensions, but your car's
handling will be seriously affected and your cornering speed will
be reduced.
Suspension affects your "traction". Your steering and your
sliding ability is seriously reduced with damage, so be very
careful when driving and sliding with serious suspension damage.
Damaged brakes affect your stopping power. This is actually a
pretty low priority for repairs as you can use shoulder-braking,
engine-braking, or handbrake.
Damaged engine has seriously reduced horsepower. This limits your
acceleration and top speed. It's very serious as you simply don't
have much power driving around at all. You may be able to
compensate with high acceleration gears, but that will cause your
engine to burn out even faster.
Damaged transmission start to lose gears (and in turn will damage
the engine as you over-rev). You first lose the highest gears
(fifth or sixth), which limits your top speed. When transmission
turns red you'll lose second gear. Then your acceleration is
seriously reduced.
